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    January 6, 2011    |    Volume 5, Issue 1    |    www.sdchamber.org    |    Members in the News


Restaurant of the Month:
Proper Gastro Pub, Downtown San Diego

Created by the owners of Wine Steals and right next door to Wine Steals East Village next to PETCO Park, Proper Gastropub serves high-quality English fare to patrons of all ages. Guests can visit Wine Steals East Village, select a bottle that pairs well with Proper’s food and then dine in Proper’s dining room or on the viewing deck for great wine, tasty food and a one-of-a-kind view.

My dining partner, Pat, and I arrived to Wine Steals at 4:30 PM on a Thursday evening. Upon entering, this venue has the unique privilege of being located at PetCo Park, you are given the choice of going to the left for Wine Steals or to the right for the Proper Gastro Pub. Both are owned and managed by the same company. If you are in a more upbeat mood, I recommend you go right to try the Pub. For wine lovers who like a simple, relaxed atmosphere, steer left for the wine bar.

We sat at the window on the Wine Steals side, opting for a quieter atmosphere. Tables are decorated with candles made from recycled wine bottles. For being a novice wine drinker, I found the service to be unpretentious and friendly. Mike Bartley, sommelier of five years and wine buyer, came over to introduce himself. His recommendation of the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc was spot on for my taste.

Shortly after, Chefs Chris and Sean came out to greet us and walk us through the tasting experience.

Executive Chef Sean Erik Magee – a San Diegan of 37 years – has an impressive culinary history, having worked at Baleen, J-six, Grant Grill, Urban Solace and Croce’s. A regular customer at the Hillcrest Wine Steals, Sean was often seen drawing food there while dining. One day, founder Ken Mills, approached him about designing food for the newest location at Petco Park's downtown Wine Steals. In March of 2010 he and the staff opened both Proper & Wine Steals.


We started our meal with one of the local favorites: Bangers n' Mash. These mini bratwurst corndogs were inspired by chef Magee’s days at the fair when he was a child. They are accompanied by a smooth celery root-parsnip mash. Rather than the stereotypical mustard or ketchup to slather on corn dogs, the accompanying sauce is a whole grain mustard vinaigrette and mostarda. The citrusy sauce is made from citrus rind cooked in honey. It made a slightly sweet, unique dip for the brats. A dash of nutty baby arugula tops off the dish.

Our next taste was the Chef's choice risotto cakes. While I have never been one to order the big plate of risotto, I'm becoming a fan of the popular mini side orders of risotto. The risotto cakes hide beneath a fried egg and are served with delacotta squash picked from Suzie's Farm, our local Imperial Beach area. The slightly crunchy texture of the risotto cakes were just begging to be dunked in the bright yellow egg yolk running from the fried egg. I highly recommend dunking away!

The duck confit was next – tender, slightly crispy but not over cooked as I tend to find duck often can be. Accompanied with cippolini onions and Spanish chorizo, and nestled on top of al dente style French green lentils, this small plate menu item was a hit with me and my dining partner. The mostarda condiment makes another appearance in this dish as well.

By this time, my dining partner and I are getting a little on the full side, but we manage to squeeze in two more tastes. I was happy to hear Chef Magee tends to prefer al dente style cooking – so if you like your food cooked al dente, definitely visit when he is in the house. The Tomato Meyer Lemon Pappardelle pasta has a light sauce with a slightly creamy texture from the preserved Meyer lemon. Basil, shallots and garlic in the dish are barely noticeable. Last, we sampled the Brown Grouper. The fish was light and flakey, served with sautéed brussels leaves, Romanesco, Chanterelle’s, Kobucha squash, and a celery root parsnip puree.


I was happy to see on the menu that they identify which dishes are gluten free, vegan and/or vegetarian. Some of the ingredients are picked from the chef's weekly pilgrimage to the local, organic Suzie's Farm. Specials can change weekly or even daily. This is a place I would recommend for those looking to meet specific dietary needs.

For more information on Wine Steals and Proper – A Gastro Pub visit www.winestealssd.com or www.propergastropub.com  or call 619-255-7542 

 

- By Grace Tayama

 

 

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